Western Sicily, Palermo and the Aeolian Islands

For so long overlooked in favour of the glittering cities of northern Italy, Sicily is gaining in popularity as a hidden corner of Europe with a unique heritage, unspoilt scenery, delightful people and exceptional food and wine. Yet much of Sicily remains unexplored - particularly its western regions, far from the shadow of iconic Mount Etna just across from Italy's 'toe'. For discerning travellers, though, venturing to Western Sicily brings great rewards. In many ways, this part of the island feels more African than European - the Carthaginians and Moors ruled here, as well as the Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Normans, Spanish and eventually the Italians. All have left a rich cultural legacy, which has been preserved by a mild, dry climate and a lack of large-scale development. 

Architecturally, the cities, towns and villages are revelations. There is a stunning cathedral in Cefalù, while Palermo's Norman Palace and Segesta's amazingly preserved Greek temple are unforgettable. A variety of influences are written into the very fabric of the buildings, from almost souk-like markets and church spires displaying classic Moorish arches and calligraphy to religious structures featuring Norman gold-leaf mosaics and Byzantine inscriptions.  

Contrasting with these ornate masterpieces are the discoveries made in the 19th century at Grotta Mangiapane - simple cave dwellings dating back perhaps as far as 20,000 years. There are also the natural habitat of the Madonie Regional Natural Park, a great place to see Sicily's dramatic, untamed landscapes and home to many species, including rare birds and big cats. Off the coast of Sicily are the beautiful Aeolian Islands, which rose from the Tyrrhenian Sea as a result of volcanic activity. We visit the largest of them, Lipari, with its captivating waterfront and acclaimed museum, which gathers together artefacts from all over the area to tell the story of this spectacularly beautiful archipelago. 

The food here is a revelation, too. There are classic Mediterranean staples, such as the ripest fruit and vegetables and fresh seafood, but you'll also notice couscous on the menu, a sure sign of Sicily's position at Europe's southernmost edge. The island is also renowned for its wines and one of its most famous comes from the far west - Marsala, the fortified dessert wine aged in barrels that's a delight to sip and, according to some, even better used for cooking. We visit a producer in the village of Marsala for a tasting, just one of the many delights of this fascinating tour.